Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Simplicity 1693

This pattern is definitely one of my TNT patterns. I have sewn five different styles of blouses just from this pattern alone. I am going to talk about the most recent three finished projects.

True to its name, this pattern is so simple. One yard of fabric was able to accommodate the front, back and sleeve pieces.

View A is blouson style with elasticized waistline and long sleeves. 

Fabric used was a silk blouseweight fabric purchased from Emma One Sock. 

Modifications I made:
Neckline sewn with elastic thread on the bobbin to make subtle ruffles.

Instead of making a waistline casing and putting a 1/4" wide elastic, I just sewed around the waistline using an elastic thread in the bobbin. 

I made the sleeves 3/4 instead of full length and sewed around the bottom edge using elastic thread in the bobbin (again!) to achieve a ruffled effect. I also finished the hem using the roll hemmer of my Juki MO 654 serger.

I finished the bottom hem of the blouse in the same manner as the sleeves.

View B is a simple pullover style with flutter sleeves.
I did not make any modifications and followed everything as instructed. 

Fabric used was a polyester crepe de chine from Sawyer Brooks.

Since my fabric was not sheer, I finished the seams by simply serging. I decided to have some fun and use contrasting thread  for serging. 

View C is a sleeveless blouson style with attached ribbon. 

Fabric used was 100% cotton voile from Sawyer Brooks.


I fully lined the top as the fabric was really sheer. I just used the same pattern pieces to draft the lining. 
Instead of attaching a separate piece of casing for the waistline elastic, I just sewed through the lining and main fabric layers to create a casing for the 1/4" wide elastic. 

I finished all seams using the serger.

A final note about the pattern. I found the sizing to be really generous. My body measurements placed me at size 8 but after sewing a muslin, I had to use straight size 4 with no alterations, not even in the bodice length. With that said, this pattern is definitely a keeper!

Vogue 9187

This past few weeks, I have been busy sewing outfits for spring and summer. Whereas before, I was content to stick with knit tops, this time I have ventured into more feminine blouses. I don't have a big stash of blouse patterns so I had to "audition" some new ones. Luckily one of them is going into my TNT (Tried and Tested) bin because I was so happy with the results.

Vogue 9187 is a multi-sized pattern for a close-fitting top with two neckline variations (scoop neck or jewel), princess seams in front and back, and back zipper closure. 

I used size 6 based on the bust measurement but graded to a 10 at the hips. I also made a slight swayback adjustment by pinching a few inches at the back princess seams. No adjustment in the bodice length was necessary as the bodice was already short. 

This is my first attempt, my so-called wearable muslin, using a 100% cotton print. 

Notice how short it is? Long-waisted gals might need to add some to the bodice length but for petite gals like me who always have to adjust the bodice, this is just the perfect length!

The back neckline is a bit deep but surprisingly, there was no issue with gaping. 
This is my final version. I was happy with the muslin fitting so I was not scared to cut into my gorgeous cotton/poly/spandex brocade from Emma One Sock. The fabric had a 15% stretch widthwise which made the top very comfortable. 

I finished the seams by serging. Careful clipping along the curves ensured the princess seams curved nicely. What I like about this pattern is the facings. They are cut wide so they are automatically sewn down along the armhole edge. Unlike other patterns I have tried before, the front and back neck facings stayed put. 
The bottom hem has self-facing ensuring nicely finished front slits.

Here is the inside view of the back zipper. Even though it's a non-separating zipper, I had no trouble putting the top on over my head. 

And here are more pictures of the finished top. I will definitely be sewing more of this top.